Lonesome Buzzard Wing Wizard 3000

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Installing the wings, even with a helper, is a pain. While I can do it alone and it’s not that time consuming it can be frustrating and it’s really easy to damage the wings moving them around. I’ve been wanting to make this process easier since I built my wing carriers long ago and I finally came up with an idea that works!

I’ve basically built a set of sawhorses, on wheels, that transforms into a wing rack while the wing is resting on the sawhorses. Watch the video to see it in action:

Now, time to start building this, your gonna need some materials:

Qty Material Length Description
2 2″ PVC pipe 62-1/2″ Main horizontal support
2 2″ PVC Pipe 12″ Main vertical support
2 2″ PVC pipe 1-3/4″ Reducer connector
2 2″ PVC pipe 3-1/2″ Rotator for base
2 1.5″ PVC pipe 25″ Vertical slider
1.5″ PVC pipe 6″ Arm rotator
2 1.5″ PVC pipe 20″ Lower arm
2 1.5″ PVC pipe 28″ Upper Arm
6 1.5″ PVC pipe 1-3/4″ 45° connectors
2 1.5″ PVC pipe 3-3/4″ Bungee holder
2 3/4″ PVC pipe 3-1/2″ Bungee hook
2 3/4″ PVC cap N/A Bungee hook
2 2″ PVC 4-way N/A
2 2″ PVC Tee N/A
2 2″ to 1-1/2″ PVC reducer N/A
2 3″ sch 30 cap N/A Mount to base
2 3″ to 2″ sch 30 bushing N/A Mount to base rotator
8 1-1/2″ PVC 45° elbow N/A
4 1-1/2″ PVC cap N/A
4 1-1/2″ PVC Tee N/A Arm rotator assembly
6 Wing Nuts N/A Replacement wing nuts for lawnmower handles
8 3″ casters N/A All must be casters, preferably locking too.
32 5/16-18X1″ carriage bolts and nuts N/A Attach casters
?? Various small screws N/A
6 1×4 common board 44″ Base
4 1×4 common board 18″ Attach casters
2 1×4 common board 56″ Attach casters
2  bungee cord 4′ Flat cord bungee

Note: Do not use “sanitary” fittings, they will not work.

Many of the PVC parts will need modified, a lathe would make most of the modifications easier. A mill would be nice too. I used a Dremel and a drill press.

Let’s start at the bottom and work out way up. 

The ends of two 44″ boards need notched to accept the 18″ boards. The notch in the 18″ boards starts 4″ from the end. I glued the there pieces together.

The rear two 44″ boards have a small notch cut in them to clear the 18″ boards. This board was glued and screwed to the back side of the platform.

The front 44″ board also needs notched but it needs to be lower. This board was added as a modification so some pictures might be missing it.

Before gluing this board I pre-tensioned it with some twist to counteract the off-center weight when the wing is in the storage position.

Modified base to prevent leaning
Modified base to prevent leaning

If your wondering why the board is pre-tensioned look at the picture below.

Tensioned platform vs non-tensioned platform
Tensioned platform vs non-tensioned platform

The casters are bolted to corners and the 3″ PVC cap is bolted in the middle.

This picture was taken before I added the front board in the previous step
This picture was taken before I added the front board in the previous step

Grab the two 2″ tees and cut a notch for the wing bolt that goes 90°. It is ok to go more than 90 but if you can make it exactly 90 you will be happier with the end result. Remember to make a right and left version, the tees should be mirrors if one another.

Now grind out the inside of the notched part of the tee until a 2″ pipe can easily rotate within the tee. Now glue the 3-1/2″ long 2″ pipe into the 3″ to 2″ reducer. Once the glue is dry insert it into the tee, ensure it freely rotates when fully inserted. Now mark the center of the notch onto the pipe. Drill a hole, use a small chisel to make the hole square for the carriage bolt.

The carriage bolts for the wing nuts need modified a little bit to better match the contour of the pipe. A vice and a file made this pretty easy.

Grab the 12″ long 2″ pipes. Cut a slot in them, this will be the height adjustment.  I used my drill press to drill a line of holes then used a file to produce what you see here.

Grind out the inside of the two 2″ to 1-1/2″ reducers until a 1-1/2″ pipe easily slides through the adapter.

You can now assemble the main part of the base.

Set the PVC base into the caps. Now adjust the base rotation wing nuts. The vertical boards on each caster platform should be facing each other.

Once adjusted to your liking use some small screws to attach the reducer and cap.
Now get two of the 1-1/2″ tees and notch them for the wing nut. Again remember​ to make a right and left.  The length of the slot is not too important, I made mine much more than 90° but depending on how much rotation you need you might want to do something different.

Now grind out the inside of the tee until a 1-1/2″ pipe easily rotate inside the tee.  Go ahead and glue the 25″ 1-1/2″ pipes to the tees. You might be tempted to cut square hole for the adjuster, but wait till later when you can better align everything first.

Now take the remaining PVC parts and build two candy canes, again be sure to make a right and left.

The 1-1/2″ long PVC pipe needs a notch cut in it so the bungee cord can exit the pipe. The “cap” will slide over the end and is secured with two small screws.

Notched four bungee cord
Notched four bungee cord

A board was cut to create a flat platform for the bottom of the wing. I used a 2.5″ hike saw to notch the end and a 45° bevel wad added with the router. 

The board was drilled and counter sunk then attached with some drywall screws I had laying around.  Then it was covered with some self adhesive pipe insulation. 

Pipe insulation to prevent scratches
Pipe insulation to prevent scratches
Pipe insulation to prevent scratches
Pipe insulation to prevent scratches

To adjust the tension on the bungee, wrap the cord around the hook before inserting it into the pipe. I did need to bend the hook a little too make it narrow enough to fit into the pipe.

Now you can assemble everything and mark the locations for the adjusting bolts.


2 thoughts on “Lonesome Buzzard Wing Wizard 3000

    Jim Swacker said:
    January 23, 2018 at 7:39 pm

    Excellent work! Any chance you might build these for sale?

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